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Fall 2010 Release
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Like anyone, winemakers grapple with the language of wine: how best to communicate aurally the characteristics of a product that can only be truly appreciated orally. How do consumers decide what wine to select from a restaurant menu or order from a winery release? Do you read back labels, point scores or perhaps comic books spinning apocryphal tales of wine quests? A current Japanese manga series called Kami no Shizuku ("The Drops of God") revolves around 12 wines cryptically referenced in a will that pits two brothers in a race to identify them before winning the rights to the deceased's legendary cellar. Voraciously consumed throughout Asia, the graphic novel is credited with increasing sales of the actual Bordeaux bottlings named so far in the story. However, its unconventional descriptions make no use of gastronomic metaphors, instead employing abstract comparisons, likening one wine to a rock concert by Queen, with its acidity evoking Freddie Mercury's vocals. Too obtuse? Perhaps you consider peer word-of-mouth, published reviews or movie dialogue? Acclaimed 2007 film Sideways features protagonist Miles, who lives for Pinot Noir but decries another varietal as less than swill with a diatribe quite descriptive in its specificity: "It tastes like the back of a &#*@$% L.A. school bus. Now they probably didn't de-stem, hoping for some semblance of concentration, crushed it up with leaves and mice, and then wound up with this rancid tar and turpentine bulls*@#." However, Miles is also guilty of weighing in on wines with pretentiously blowsy verbiage that offers flaccid tasting insights despite blowing so hard: "Mmm. Quaffable. But, far from transcendent." Since that language is seriously up to personal interpretation, a universal tongue comes in terribly handy during a social tasting. To that end, I cite the The Aroma Wheel devised in the early 1980s by the Fermentation Science Department at UC Davis as a standard to describe different varietals in uniform, non-judgmental (but often humorous) terms ranging from general (spicy or herbaceous) to precise (wet dog or sauerkraut). It offers novice and connoisseur alike common expressions to discuss the flavors they perceive. Over time, the wheel helps train your nose and brain to link terms with aromas. Many of these terms show up regularly in wine reviews because they ring true vintage after vintage. But after thousands of wines analyzed over the years, journalists surely must need fresh ways to express the same ideas. Here are a few of Failla's past reviews; decide for yourself how successfully the writers' new lingo does the job: "Deep, brooding aromas of black cherry, spices and black tea, lifted by a violet nuance. Dense and sweet-even a bit muscular-yet somehow light on its feet thanks to firm acidity. Finishes with good grip and lift." Is this a review of Pinot Noir or the male lead in a ballet premiere? "Reminiscent of a full-throttle French Pommard. With plenty of muscle, depth, richness, and tannin." I imagine this reviewer overdosed on his mechanic's stash of Car & Driver. "This lovely wine has more flesh and depth on its bones, but it remains zesty." Or: "Soft and sensual, this Pinot is a real charmer." How about: "Plump but quite dry, with ripe acids giving grip to the broad back end." I don't think these reviewers were drinking alone, do you? Could you describe succinctly to a sommelier the type of wine you craved? How would you fare as a wine blogger or reviewer? We invite you to send us your tasting notes after sampling this round of offerings and we'll post the most insightful and colorful ones on our Facebook fan page. In the meantime, read our attempts at vinous fidelity; we hope they resonate with you. 2009 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay (400 cases produced) Mindful of keeping our grower relationships healthy and flexible, we love to take their unexpected offers of additional fruit. When they differ enough from the bedrock grapes of our single vineyard bottlings, we enjoy the opportunity to experiment with the blending process. Such was the case in '09. We whole-cluster pressed this fruit into French barrels, with restrained use of new oak contributing subtle brioche undertones to the delicate floral high notes of jasmine, honey and green tea. Malolactic fermentation balances crisp mouth-watering acidity with well-integrated oak for a lovely hazelnutty finish. 2007 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Peay Vineyard (200 cases produced) This sophomore effort from our northern-most vineyard showcases the classic characteristics of cool-climate viticulture: subtle fruit and crisp acidity sustained by unhurried ripening. We fermented the fruit in open top vessels while maintaining about 20% whole clusters, and aged in French oak, 25% new. While bottled with its harvest mates, the Peay seems to benefit from extended bottle-aging so we hold on to it until it's ready to stand on its own. Today it introduces itself with a restrained nose of rose petal, currant and hints of white pepper while presenting a near perfectly balanced palate of fruit, refined tannins and structural acidity. Will age well for at least 7-10 years. 2007 Sonoma Coast "Vivien" Pinot Noir (100 cases produced) Our Vivien confirms the rewards of precise blending. After the first year of barrel-age, Ehren hand-selects barrels from each lot of our Sonoma Coast sources to marshal their diverse facets. As it turned out, 50% of the barrels selected were new oak prompting us to let the wine cool its heels an additional 6 months in barrel and sur-lee. The result is a wine with fully-integrated oak that does not overpower the complex bouquet of concentrated, bright cherry and orange rind (courtesy of the Hirsch Vineyard), baking spices (a hallmark of Occidental Ridge), and the mocha richness of Keefer Ranch. The palate offers well-structured acidity (from our Estate fruit) along with satiny, elegant tannins for a wine worth cellaring 7-10 years. 2008 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Occidental Ridge Vineyard (500 cases produced) As the first vineyard picked in Ô08, this fruit christened our new facility with it's inaugural crush! As with all of our Pinot Noirs the fruit was destemmed into open-topped fermenters, treated to twice daily manual punch-downs (the most gentle means of flavor and tannin extraction) and aging in all French oak barrels, one-third new. True to form, this wine explodes out of the glass with aromas of caramelized fruit, candied citrus rind and baking spice. Sleek, yet structured, tannins partner with defining acidity for an elegant mouthfeel. Despite its current accessibility, we believe this vintage will cellar well for 7-10 years. 2008 Sonoma Coast Syrah, Estate Vineyard (100 cases produced) Picked in early October, the fruit was added to open-topped vessels as whole clusters then treated to daily punch-downs throughout fermentation before aging in 50% new French oak barrels. When integrating the stems Ehren is seeking to capture peppery aromas. He also adds Viognier pomace to the fermenters, in true Rh™ne fashion, to fix color and bring out the aromatics. Accompanying the spice are aromas of blueberry, black cherry and smoked meats with hints of violet and granite. Mouthcoating refined tannins create a lean Rh™ne-like palette presence. Expect this Syrah to cellar well for 10-12 years. Consider taking advantage of our Harvest Lunches this fall: gourmet multi-course meals with current release wine pairings and conversation with winemaking and crush crews. Contact Kathy for details and to book your feast. And as always, be sure to check the Faillawines.com Events Page for details on upcoming events such as Pinot on the River in Healdsburg on 10/24, dinner at Solage in Calistoga on 10/30, the Farallon Pinot Fest in San Francisco on 11/19, and dinners at the Ritz Carlton, Tucson and Palmetto Bluff in South Carolina next Spring. With this release shipping will be included in the purchase of your first full case of wine. For the best chance at receiving your full order, please return the enclosed form by September 27. We will begin shipping on October 11th unless you request that we hold your order to ship on a later date. You are welcome to pick up your wine order at our Pick-up Party on Saturday, October 9th from 11am to 3pm. We will taste current as well as library wines paired with a spread of seasonal amuse bouche. Please be sure to RSVP.
Spring 2010 Release Newsletter Spring 2008 Release Newsletter |
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