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Fall 2011 Release
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"The present was an egg laid by the past that had the future inside its shell." ~ Zora Neale Hurston An awfully profound pronouncement for such a prosaic product, wouldn't you agree? No less is expected from the concrete incarnation currently capturing the interest of experimental winemakers like us. Concrete fermentors have been in use since the 19th century, as they are porous and breathe like oak barrels without adding the buttery vanillin qualities of wood. In an effort to preserve the minerality and pure fruit of our Chardonnays, we have always minimized their contact with new oak while eschewing the use of stainless steel as its impermeable shell inhibits the presence of oxygen and compresses aromatics. Fortunately, Ehren's lack of formal training leaves him impressionable to unorthodox ideas. Where yesterday's concrete tanks were boxes full of hard-to-clean corners, he found today's pristine egg-shaped vessels promised added texture and richness in the wine from greater contact with the lees which are always in movement, because of the ovoid shape. Arriving fully-formed as they do in nature, two 6hL eggs went right to work in 2010. Trials are going so well, Ehren ordered three more for 2011. 2010 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay (900 cases produced) This wine is privileged to be the first release treated to the concrete-egg, used as a fermentation and levage vessel for 20% of the overall blend. The remainder fermented and aged sur lie for 10 months in French oak, only 15% new and barely perceptible in the flinty nose balanced with tropical scents of jasmine, honey, Meyer lemon and pineapple. In concert with the textural contributions of the concrete-fermented lots, malolactic fermentation provides a round, glycerin mouthfeel that can hold its own in the presence of crisp mouth-watering acidity. 2009 Russian River Valley Chardonnay, Keefer Ranch (375 cases produced) 2009's iconic warm, summer California temps were a welcome follow-up to the crippling frosts of 2008. Textbook growing conditions allowed the fruit to develop Keefer's classic Chablis-like profile of minerally acidity. Whole-cluster pressed directly into 1/3 new French oak barrels, the '09 offers diverse aromatics of almonds, wet stones, green apple, honeysuckle and panna cotta as a lead-in to the round, textured mouthfeel balanced by a long crisp finish. 2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Whistler Vineyard (225 cases produced) Owned and planted by Ph.D molecular biologists (can you tell we're impressed?) Stig Hansen and his wife Jennifer Whistler, the Whistler Vineyard lies in the northern-most reaches of coastal Sonoma County. High-density vine spacing mimics the Burgundian vineyards Stig fell for working as a wine retailer in his native Denmark. This wine enjoys the same pampering as all of our pinots: 3-4 day cold soak for color extraction, daily manual punchdowns and 1/3 new oak French barrelŠaging. We included 20% whole-clusters in this debut Whistler to concentrate classic baking-spice aromas which marry romantically with scents of pomegranate, rhubarb and licorice. Fine silky tannins play off the natural acidity courtesy of coastal ridgetop vineyards. 2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Occidental Ridge Vineyard (240 cases produced) This northwest facing vineyard perched above the town of Occidental produces pinot noir black in color with structure and acidity. 2009 was stamped by Occidental's trademark nose of baking spice, sous-bois, and concentrated fruit for a very sexy first impression. Despite this wine's brooding color and earthy introduction, there is no need to decant it first as the natural acidity and tannins are already well-integrated and firm. Enjoy its evolution over the next 10-12 years. 2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Hirsch Vineyard (390 cases produced) 2009 was a picture perfect year for this vineyard. The Pommard block, typically the core of our Hirsch bottling, is a hillside planting with multiple exposures that provides tones of cola, boysenberry, white pepper, and pencil lead on the nose and a spine of laser acidity. The second component of the final blend comes from a block of Mt. Eden clone, a breath-taking parcel with direct views of the Pacific. Classic Hirsch elegance is on full display as Mt. Eden's remarkable feminine quality of an ethereal, lacy mouthfeel compliments the deeper firmer tannins of the Pommard clone. Expect this to be the longest-lived Hirsch at about 10-12 years of cellaring. 2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Estate Vineyard (125 cases produced) Since planting rootstock in 2000, we have released only two other vintages of our Estate Pinot Noir. The vineyard is dry-farmed and tightly-spaced, conditions that raise a hardy plant able to set concentrated fruit even in drought conditions, but no match for voracious birds or late-season frost. Always the most exotic of the fall release, the '09 nose is redolent of brandied cherries, cola nut, orange peel, black tea, gunpowder and balsam. Age-worthy, tight-fisted tannins make this a wine to enjoy for 7-10 years. 2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, "Vivien" (100 cases produced) Not long ago we overheard our eldest daughter, whose middle name is Failla, insist to her little sister that "mom and dad named the winery after me!" Realizing that protests were futile, we gave the little sister her own wine. After 12 months of barrel-aging, Ehren selects one barrel each from four of our Sonoma Coast vineyard lots, to be blended and aged for another 4 months in neutral cooperage. Hazelnut pervades the complex bouquet of frais de bois and blood orange (via Hirsch), savory spices and white pepper (hallmarks of Occidental Ridge), and the mocha richness of Keefer. Great weight and palate presence are the result of well-structured acidity (from our Estate fruit) and resolved, elegant tannins for a wine worth cellaring 7-10 years. 2009 Sonoma Coast Syrah, Estate Vineyard (140 cases produced) Since our inaugural vintage of Estate Syrah, Ehren has fully committed to 100% whole-cluster fermentation, concentrating the varietal's distinctive peppery aromatics and staking his northern-Rhne style of winemaking. Barreled-down in new French oak, one-third of which was new, this wine seduces with a seductive roux of bacon, ground pepper, violets, olive and blueberry cobbler on the nose. Sit down with a steak knife to handle the massive, chewy tannins after decanting. Should evolve and age well for 8-10 years. As we head into autumn, consider reserving a place at one of our Harvest Lunches where we offer gourmet, family-style meals paired with current release and library wines as well as conversation with our winemaking crew. Contact kathy@faillawines.com for details and bookings. Don't forget to check our website for news on events such as Pinot on the River in Healdsburg on October 23rd, and the Farallon Pinot Fest in San Francisco on November 19th. For something a bit less crowded, consider attending the "Sonoma County Syrah" winemaker-led seminar followed by dinner at the Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg on November 6th. In addition, we invite you to bid for a seat at the table for Coast to Coast ~ Wine & Dine at Restaurant Marc Forgione in NYC on November 15th. Marc "Forge" Forgione, winner of the 2010 Iron Chef title, has pulled together a cadre of fellow chefs and winemakers to benefit Feeding America. And finally, Failla and Turley team up for one of the Vintners' Holiday sessions, including seminars and a Gala dinner, hosted by the Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite, December 4th -6th. With this release, shipping will be included in the purchase of your first full case of wine. For the best chance at receiving your full order, please return the enclosed order form by September 23rd. We will begin shipping on September 26th. You are welcome to pick up your fall wine order and visit our Tasting Room and Caves at our Harvest Pick-up Party on Saturday, October 8th from 11am to 3pm. We will taste current as well as library wines paired with delectable comestibles. Please be sure to RSVP to Kathy@faillawines.com or on the enclosed order form.
Spring 2011 Release Newsletter Spring 2010 Release Newsletter Spring 2008 Release Newsletter |
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