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Spring 2011 Release
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I think most of us would agree with the statement that wine making is both an art and a science, with the line between the two positioned differently for each winemaker. Modern technology gives scientists an arsenal of tools to mimic the chemical analysis of storied wines as well as to "fix" wines gone bad. But the artists among us apply the insights of science from the beginning of the process to fine tune a vineyard or decide how much to intervene in a vintage's progress. Many winemakers feel conflicted about using advanced science to enhance an ancient art. Some are actually turning back the clock by experimenting with millennia-old techniques like fermenting in terra cotta amphora buried underground. Others are pursuing a century-old philosophy based on lunar cycles and the idea of "protecting life forces and cosmic influences". Even wine-sellers in the UK have recently begun encouraging their customers to only drink wine on so-called "fruit" days – those days in the biodynamic calendar when water and saps rise – vs. "root" days when saps fall. Weird, you say? But, honestly, which is weirder: burying a cow's horn filled with manure in the vineyard during a full moon or centrifuging wine to eliminate excess alcohol? In the final analysis, if the wine tastes better, why ask why? While we're seriously discussing the role of heavenly bodies on wine, have you ever considered the influence of Astrology on the taste of wine? No less a scholar than Carl Jung seems to have: "We are born at a given moment in a given place and like vintage years of wine we have the qualities of the year and of the season in which we are born. Astrology does not lay claim to anything else." Earlier this year, the media caused a frenzy by reporting the claim by an Astronomy professor that a wobble in the Earth's rotation has changed how the constellations are viewed from Earth today, 2,000 years after the Zodiac was drawn up. He seemed to be suggesting that astrologers would have to admit that we've been reading the wrong horoscopes all these years. Well we think the Chinese may want to reconsider their Zodiac as well. Here at Failla, we are convinced that rather than ringing in the Year of the Hare, we are really headed into the Year of the Pig! It's no secret that Pinot and Syrah were made for pairing with pork, but Failla is out to spread the gospel this spring! We join the hottest epicurean tour around right now, Cochon555, in 5 cities: New York (1/23), Napa (3/6), Denver (4/3), Los Angeles (5/1) and San Francisco (6/1). "5 Chefs, 5 Pigs, 5 Wineries" trumpets Cochon555's mission: to promote sustainable farming of heritage breed pigs through culinary competition and communication. We also make an appearance at Charlie Palmer's Pigs & Pinot on March 18 at the Hotel Healdsburg. Check out the Events page at faillawines.com for details on these and other events. 2009 Edna Valley Viognier, Alban Vineyard (185 cases produced) The similarity in climate between the Edna Valley and the Rh™ne, coupled with Ehren's insistence on fermentation in neutral French oak, reveals every facet of this distinctive varietal in the finished wine. The exotic aromas of Satsuma, apricot and wet stone blend seamlessly with the perfume of white tea and jasmine. A rush of mouth-watering acidity, and the sweet-tart note of orange peel, synchronize beautifully with the subtle viscosity of a glycerin-like finish. 2009 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, Estate Vineyard (225 cases produced) These grapes were whole-cluster pressed directly into French oak barrels, one half of which were new. Where the '08 was refined and elegant, this '09 is rich and seductive. Languorous notes of lemon oil, honeysuckle nectar, and ripe peach are etched with roasted hazelnut and chalky minerality. The palate begins with a toasty, delicate mouthfeel and builds into an intense, rich, creamy texture nicely integrated with acid for an extended finish. 2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir (800 cases produced) This cuvee is a blend of young-vine blocks from our multiple Sonoma Coast appellation sources. A product of the same kid-glove winemaking as our vineyard designated Pinots, the 2009 Sonoma Coast is aged in French oak, about 20% new. The nose offers a complex fusion of sweet almond, rose petals, and marzipan which underscore the classic aromas of cherry and cola. Smooth tannins and a resiny mouthfeel give structure to the fresh berry palate. 2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Sonoma Stage Vineyard (195 cases produced) Planted in 1999, the Sonoma Stage vineyard is located at the apex of Stage Gulch Road between Petaluma and Carneros, and is influenced by marine air from both the San Pablo Bay and the Pacific Ocean. The diversity in our Pinot portfolio comes from the diversity of the Sonoma Coast appellation itself which offers a cool-climate palette of inland valleys, coastal fog, elevated mountain ranges, and low-laying river valleys with which to craft elite Pinot Noir. Ours offers notes of frais de bois, white flower, dried tea leaf and juniper berry on the nose before seducing you with a luscious, silky palate and soft, lithe tannins. A delicate Pinot to drink over the next 3 years. 2009 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, Monument Tree (180 cases produced) Twelve miles from the Pacific and located in Mendocino County, this vineyard is named for the lightning-split redwood standing sentinel over the vines. Monument Tree's wide diurnal temperature swings of 40-50 degrees between am and pm keep acids crisp and fruit bright. The long growing season results in aromas of black cherry, brambly fruit, star anise and peppercorn. Fine-grain tannins frame a broad silky mouthfeel. Seamless, start to finish. Drink this young. 2009 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Pearlessence Vineyard (220 cases produced) Greg & Linda Pearl planted this 1.8 acre vineyard just south of Sebastopol two decades ago. No other winery buys this fruit and we only offer this small production wine to our mailing list customers and visitors. We picked in late September and fermented the fruit in an open top vessel before aging the wine in French oak, only 25% new. Study reveals the exotic interplay of pomegranate, red apple, candied walnuts and musky oriental perfume. Lazer-focused tannins highlight concentrated fruit, nervy acidity and a silky palate. Will age well for 7-10 years. 2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, Keefer Ranch (550 cases produced) As always, the fruit was destemmed into open-topped fermenters, punched down twice-a-day during fermentation, and aged sur-lie in French oak barrels, one-third of which were new. Epitomizing the Russian River Valley "terroir ", the '09 Keefer offers archetypal pinot aromas of sour cherry, sous-bois, and glove leather with jammy undertones. Velvety texture and juicy fruit belie the structure of this wine's spicy, present tannins. Will age well for 7-10 years. 2009 Napa Valley Syrah, Phoenix Ranch (285 cases produced) With ever-escalating experimentation, a whopping 80% of our '09 Phoenix Syrah was fermented as whole clusters, concentrating the distinctive peppery aromatics of the northern Rhone, then barreled-down in new French oak, one-third of which was new. After an award-winning run, we bid farewell to this vineyard with a 100% Syrah bottling boasting classic aromas of violets, bacon fat, dark chocolate, blueberries and graphite. This vineyard has left savage youth behind and now offers more elegant, yet still chewy, tannins. Will evolve and age well for 8-10 years.
Spring 2010 Release Newsletter Spring 2008 Release Newsletter |
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